One hundred years, 20 000 lives, millions of acres of rainforest, and about £1000 is what it cost us to cross the Panama Canal. 

The canal’s construction at the turn of the century is a typical story of proxy colonialism, exploitation, and political gymnastics. The result is a cut through the continent that still inspires awe a century later.

It was a long day getting through the canal – three sets of locks, two of them multi-step ones – have to be crossed, and there’s a lake in the middle too, which used to be tropical rainforest until the inhabitants were cleared and the land flooded to complete the project. Now no one is permitted to live within ten miles of the canal, and the crocodiles have the place to themselves (not that we saw any). 

We left Panama city in the early hours, and it was dark again as we transited the final set of locks, accompanied by a huge tanker. Not a view you want to see too often from the stern of a yacht. 

A brief night’s rest in the uninspiring city of Colõn, and tonight we leave Shelter bay marina, head through the breakwater, and out into the Caribbean. 

Next stop New York, in just 12 days’ time…